Filed under: Energy Trust of Oregon, General, Portland, rainwater harvesting, Refrigerator and Freezer Recycling, Spring Cleaning Checklist | Tags: Chris Hermanski, Mainlander Property Management, Refrigerator and Freezer Recycling, Zero Waste Home
TIPS
Before you start:
-Arm yourself with a reusable water bottle, a couple grocery totes, a few cloth bags and reusable jars and bottles.
-Get your 4R right. Refuse-Reduce-Reuse … Recycle only as a last resort.
1- Welcome alternatives to disposables (paper towels, garbage liners, wax paper, aluminum sheets, disposable plates, cups, etc….): swap paper towels for reusable rags, swap sandwich baggies for kitchen towels or stainless containers, drop garbage liners all together (wet waste is mostly compostable anyways).
2- Buy in bulk or at the counter (see Zero Waste Grocery Shopping), bring reusable bags (dry goods), jars (wet items such as meat, deli, fish, cheese, oil, peanut butter) and bottles (liquids: oil, soy sauce, shampoo, conditioner).
3- At default of bulk, find a supplier (bring your jar to the ice cream shop, a pillow case to the bakery for your bread, or your bottles to the winery/brewery)… or make it ( mustard, salad dressing, hot sauce, jams, OJ, hummus, cookies, canned tomatoes).
4- Shop the farmer’s market: they’ll take the egg carton and the berries baskets back for reuse. Your veggies will also most likely be free of plastic and stickers.
5- Learn to love your tap water.
6- Use bulk castile soap as a dish/hand cleaner, baking soda as a scrubber (in a stainless Parmesan dispenser) with a compostable cleaning brush (a wooden one with natural hair). Choose dishwasher detergent in a cardboard box.
7- Turn your trash can into a big compost keeper. Use your tiny compost keeper as a trash can (on the market, the sizes for these seem to be reversed).
8- Reinvent your leftovers before they go bad. Go thru your recipe binder/box and only keep the recipes that can be achieved with zero waste in mind.
9- Invest in a pressure cooker (halves the cooking time).
10- YOU CAN ALSO… Reuse single-side printed paper for grocery shopping and errands list, use your lettuce cleaning water to water plants, open your oven after baking in the winter (cool your oven, warm your house)…
1- Use 100% recycled and unbleached toilet paper individually wrapped in paper (if you have solar you could install an electrical washlet to your toilet sit).
2- Use a solution of baking soda/water/lavender essential oil in a spray bottle or an alum stone or straight baking soda (most effective) as anti-perspirant.
3- For shaving, (re)use a safety razor and shaving soap (usually wrapped in paper) or Alep soap (found in middle-eastern stores).
4- Refill your bottles with bulk shampoo and conditioner. If your hair is short, you also have the “no-poo” option: rinse your hair, massage baking soda in, then rinse, with vinegar for shine. Instead of hairspray, switch to lemon water in a spray bottle (see Recipes). To go longer between washes, substitute dry shampoo for cornstarch.
5- For body/face soap, find a package-free solid soap or bulk liquid castile soap. To exfoliate, switch to bulk baking soda or oatmeal for the face and salt for the body. For a mask, switch to bulk clays (French, Kaolin, Bentonite, etc…), mixed with water or apple cider vinegar.
6- Switch from toothpaste to homemade tooth powder (see Recipes), in a glass parmesan dispenser. And until we see a wooden compostable toothbrush on the US market, there are no right answers out there yet.
7- Reduce your cosmetics and consider homemade substitutes such as cocoa powder as bronzer and homemade balm that works on eyes, lips, hair and nails (see Recipes) and in lieu of disposable feminine products, invest in menstrual cup and reusable liners.
8- All you need for your nails is a nail clipper, stainless file and the homemade balm for moisture and shine.
9- Forget about Q-tips, they are not good for you anyways. Do your research.
10-YOU CAN ALSO… compost hair and nail clippings, put a brick in your toilet tank, collect water in a bucket while your shower heats and water your plants with it, and use zero waste cleaning: microfiber cloths for mirrors, hydrogen peroxide for mold, baking soda as scrub, a mix of baking soda and vinegar as drain cleaner (see Cleaning and Recipes)…
1- Welcome natural cleaning alternatives: bulk castile soap on floors and sinks,
homemade all purpose cleaner (see Recipes), baking soda for scrubbing jobs
hydrogen peroxide for mildew.
2- Welcome alternative house cleaning tools: a metal scrubby on stainless, a wooden brush for light scrubbing, an old toothbrush for hard to reach places and microfiber cloths for everything else (counters, floor, fridge, etc… for mirrors and windows, just add water… no window cleaner needed).
3- Sweep your floors with a boar bristle broom, wash with a wet microfiber mop and a few drops of castile soap.
4- Use worn-out clothing items made into rags on your un-washable messes (wax/auto grease/glue/caulk).
5- Buy bulk dishwasher detergent or in a recyclable cardboard box and use white vinegar as a rinsing aid.
6- Let houseplants absorb toxins and clean your air. Open a window instead of plugging in an air freshener.
7- Laundry washing once a week saves time and dryer energy costs, use eco-friendly detergent, full loads, and cold water cycles as much as possible. Savon de Marseille, dishwasher detergent, lemon or hydrogen peroxide work great on stains.
8- Dry on a line when possible.
9- Iron fewer things and use a homemade starch in a stainless spray bottle (see Recipes).
10- YOU CAN ALSO… find a sustainable dry cleaner (one that offers a reusable garment bag and non-toxic cleaners), compost dryer lint and dust bunnies…
1- Remember to bring extra jars to the grocery store when shopping for company (including take-out).
2- Make finger foods for larger parties and consider serving tap water with lemon slices instead of fizzy water.
3- Use ceramic dishes, cloth dinner napkins and cloth appetizer napkins at all times.
4- Avoid the use of serving platters/dishes: When serving straight onto dinner plates, it simplifies, saves water from extra cleaning, and it allows for a plate presentation.
5- Find creative ways to decorate your table with few napkin folding tricks, discarded leaves/branches from the yard, or just seasonal fruit…
6- Reuse empty votive tins (and the wick base) to make new votive candles for company with bulk beeswax and lead-free wick.
7- Transfer your music onto your iPod: Donate your CD player and CD’s for others to enjoy.
8- Bring a jar of a homemade consumable, or your favorite bulk item wrapped in Furoshiki as a hostess gift. Give the gift of an experience as a birthday present.
9- Educate your friends about your zero waste efforts (so they don’t bring waste into your home)
10- YOU CAN ALSO… bring your own container for leftovers when dining out, use rechargeable batteries for those remote controls, try living without TV for a while…
1- Refuse, and therefore help stop the madness of the free-pen / free-pencil.
2- Use refillable stainless pen/pencils, white board markers and highlighters and donate extra office material (paper, pencils) to your public school’s art program.
3- Start your personal junk mail war, cancel your phone directories, and sign up for electronic bills and statements.
4- Reuse single-side printed paper for printing or making notepads held by a metal clip, reuse junk mail response envelopes and buy recycled paper products, packaged in paper.
5- Ditch the trash can, strive to use your compost and recycling bins exclusively.
6- Use, Reuse and Request recyclable paper packing material when shipping (incl. paper tape), print postage and addresses directly on your envelopes, use surface mail, use a return address stamp instead of stickers.
7- Reuse paper clips (available in bulk) instead of staples, or a staple-free stapler.
8- Use your library to read business magazines and books, sell your books or donate them to your library for other people to enjoy.
9- Use memory sticks and external drives instead of CD’s.
10- YOU CAN ALSO… use a power strip on your equipment, recycle your printer cartridges and cell phone, donate your unused computer to Goodwill, make paper with double-side printed paper, take unused packing material to your local shipping center…
1- Stick to minimal wardrobes, shoes and purses.
2- Only shop a couple times a year to avoid compulsive buys.
3- Buy mostly seconhand.
4- When buying new, buy quality with minimal tags (leave the shoe box at the store).
5- Be ruthless on fit, if it fits well, you’re most likely to wear it.
6- Bring a reusable bag for your purchases.
7- Donate unworn pieces (the most forgiving rule of thumb deadline being one year).
8- Keep some of your wornout clothes for rags and label the rest as “rags” for Goodwill to recycle.
9- Learn of few sewing tricks (like shortening a hem).
10- YOU CAN ALSO… take it to the tailor to fit it better so you’ll actually wear it, and keep a handkerchief in each one of your purses/bags…
1- Keep only a minimal supply, so you can see what you have.
2- Ask your pharmacy to reuse your prescription jar. It’s illegal for pharmacies to refill them in CA, but your state might allow it..
3- Choose tablets (pain reliever, for example) in a glass or at default a plastic jar (usually a recyclable #2), instead of the tablets individually wrapped in aluminum/plastic and a box.
4- Do not buy jumbo size medication jars, they expire way before you can finish them.
5- Choose metal tubes instead of plastic.
6- Invest in a Neti pot: Great to clear out your sinuses with just water and sea salt.
7- Consider a few natural alternatives: a corn silk tea for prostate relief, a senna leaf tea for constipation relief or an oatmeal bath for skin relief.
8- Forgo the plastic band-aids and let it air-dry or use gauze and surgical tape, and hydrogen peroxide as an antiseptic.
9- Do not use everyday antibacterial products, they make bad bacteria stronger.
10- YOU CAN ALSO… reconsider your true need for vitamins (as opposed to a healthy varied diet) and use sunscreen moderately…
1- Use drought tolerant and native plants, replace your lawn with short native grasses.
2- Make room for compost, pee in your citrus and compost. Consider a worm compost for liquid fertilize.
3- Return plastic containers to the nursery.
4- Find bulk seeds.
5- Give away plants (also, landscaping rocks, fencing, irrigation piping, etc…) that you do not want anymore. Post them on the free section of Craigslist.
6- Find a bulk garden center, and get your dirt, rocks, compost, etc… in reusable sand bags.
7- Consider investing in an irrigation controller with a rainwater sensor.
8- Install rainwater and gray water catchments (check your city ordinances for the latter).
10- YOU CAN ALSO… Keep a minimal and quality tool selection made of metal and wood (which can be repaired more easily)…
Filed under: Property Management | Tags: Chris Hermanski, Home Maintenance, Portland OR, Property Management, property management services, rental property maintenance, rentals, tenants
The Annual Mainlander Property Management Vendor Appreciation Luncheon was held on Thursday, February 17th. It was another huge success! The festivities took place at Mainlander’s office in Lake Oswego and was attended by over 45 vendors. 
They came from all over to enjoy some great food that was either prepared by a Mainlander staff member or brought in from local restaurants like Busters BBQ! Many even found room to enjoy a piece of the giant Tres Leche cake for dessert!
The food, conversation and networking opportunities were much appreciated by all. Over the course of the lunch, everyone had a chance to relax, enjoy conversation and network with each other while the Mainlander staff gave out exciting door prizes to some very lucky winners.
Some prizes and winners included a Portland City Grill Gift Certificate to Willamette Spa, a Nel Centro Restaurant Certificate to Pro Drain, a 2 night stay at Hotel Modera in Portland to Coho Electric and a 1 night stay at Hotel Andra in Seattle to Norm Jensen!!!
Mainlander Property Management appreciates their vendors and looks forward to this event each and every year. It’s a time to give back and say thank you for all the hard work that is put into by these individuals to help make Mainlander the great property management company it has grown to be!
Filed under: General, Home Safety | Tags: Chris Hermanski, Foreclosure Crime, Home Safety, Neighborhood Watch
With the foreclosure rate still high, chances are good that there may be a foreclosed home in your neighborhood. In a society where often we are too busy to know our neighbors, it is important to recognize a foreclosed home in order to protect your home and property.
Keeping an eye on the home is essential to your safety. Make it a point to drive by the home every day and notice if there are any obvious changes such as an open window or blinds. If someone has tried to break in, it may be obvious just by taking a quick look.
Even though you have always considered your neighborhood to be safe, having a foreclosed home on your street can be a magnet for vandalism or even a temptation for someone to break in. If someone decides to scope out a foreclosed home in order to see what may be left inside, they also might check out your home to see what they can easily steal from you. Bicycles that are left in your backyard are a temptation and an easysteal for someone who is scoping out a foreclosed home.
If you talk to your neighbors, keep tabs on the goings-on in your neighborhood by recognizing strange cars or people whom you have never seen before. It is important to keep an eye on who visits your neighbors and what cars might be parked on your street. If you see someone who appears to be suspicious, write down the license plate number and description of the vehicle and call the non-emergency number.
Pay attention to strange cars driving by slowly and pedestrians who look like they do not belong in your neighborhood. Sometimes there is no sign out front advertising that the home is going through foreclosure but it is obvious that there is no longer anyone living in the home.
Take the time to cut the grass until the bank sends out someone to do the landscaping. If the home looks maintained it can keep criminals from trying to break in. Being aware of what goes on in your neighborhood can help you to protect your family and your property against becoming a victim. Taking the time to pay attention to what goes on in your neighborhood will ultimately keep you and your family safer.
Neighborhood Watch News Volume 25 Issue 2-February, 2011
Filed under: rainwater harvesting | Tags: Chris Hermanski, soil and water conservation
This free 4-hour class is co-sponsored by: Clackamas County Soil and Water Conservation District, Tualatin Soil and Water Conservation District, Tualatin River Watershed Council, OSU Extension Service, Tualation River Watershed Partners Clean Water and Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge.
The workshop will be held on Saturday, March 5th, 2011 from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. at Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge, 19255 SW Pacific Hwy, Sherwood, OR.
Topics to be covered:
- Rainwater collection for both urban and rural settings (<550 gallons)
- Potable and non-potable uses
- Parts needed to install a system
- How to calculate amount of water available for collection
- Water uses and irrigation efficiency
- Pump systems, gutters and downspouts
- Concept of large tanks (>550 gallons)
- Case Studies
Please call Lacey Townsend, (503) 648-3174 ext 102 or email lacey.townsend@or.nacdnet.net to register by Friday, February 25, 2011.
Filed under: 2009 Oregon Legislative Changes, Home Safety, Woodstoves | Tags: 2009 Oregon Legislative Changes, Chris Hermanski, Home Safety
Beginning August 1, 2010, anyone selling a home with an old, uncertified woodstove will be required to remove and destroy this device. The 2009 Oregon Legislature signed Senate Bill 102 into law requiring the removal of any uncertified woodstove from a home when it is sold. This law is part of a program to help protect Oregonians from uncontrolled wood smoke. Residential wood burning is a significant source of air pollution, including fine particulate and air toxics.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Heat Smart Program
What is Required?
As of August 1, 2010, Oregon law requires you to remove an uncertified woodstove or fireplace insert if you are selling your home.
For Home Sellers
What is the Heat Smart Program?
The 2009 Oregon Legislature passed a law requiring the removal of any uncertified woodstove from a home when it is sold. This law helps protect people from unnecessary woodsmoke pollution.
Why are uncertified stoves a concern?
Uncertified woodstoves burn about 70 percent dirtier than certified woodstoves. They also burn far less efficiently and require more fuel than newer, certified stoves. These older, polluting stoves can remain in service for dozens of years. Removing them from service would help Oregon’s efforts to restore and preserve healthy air and save homeowners money.
What are the health concerns with woodstove smoke?
Wintertime residential wood burning is a significant source of air pollution, including fine particulates and air toxics. At times, heavy smoke from residential wood burning in a community can exceed federal air quality health standards for particulate matter. Particulate matter in woodstove smoke can be easily inhaled and reach the deepest part of our lungs; it is known to cause or contribute to respiratory disease, asthma attacks, heart problems, and premature death. Wood smoke also contains toxic organic compounds known to cause cancer.
What do I need to do if I have a woodstove or fireplace insert?
First, you should check whether or not the woodstove or fireplace insert is certified. If the stove or insert is uncertified, it must be removed before the house is sold. If the stove or insert is certified there is no need to remove the stove.
How do I determine if my woodstove or fireplace insert is certified?
You can tell if your device is certified by looking on the back for a certification sticker from Oregon DEQ or the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). This label indicates it is certified to comply with particulate emission standards. A safety label (from U.L. or other safetylisting agency) is not the same as DEQ or EPA certification. You can also check EPA’s list of certified woodstoves to see if your wood heating device is listed.
For Home Buyers
My stove does not have a label, can I get it certified?
No. Certification is only completed by stove manufacturers when introducing a new model line. To meet certification requirements, stoves must have pollution control systems built into the device.
What if I can’t access the back of my stove? What do I do if the label has worn off?
You can look up the model number of your stove on EPA’s certified woodstove list. You can also try to call the manufacturer of the stove to determine if it was certified.
How do I remove and destroy my uncertified stove?
You can remove it yourself or contact your local woodstove retailer or chimney sweep who may be able to remove and destroy the stove for you. If you choose to remove your uncertified device take it to your local metal scrap recycler or landfill to make sure it is properly disposed and destroyed. Just be sure that you get a receipt from the contractor or business that takes your stove. Your receipt is proof of the stove’s destruction and part of your notification to DEQ.
How do I notify the DEQ that I have removed and destroyed my stove?
Beginning August 1, 2010 you can submit a disclosure form to DEQ online. The form will be posted here August 1, 2010. You will also have the option to mail the form in paper form to DEQ
– Heat Smart Program, 811 SW Sixth Ave, Portland, OR 97204.
Do I also have to remove an uncertified stove from my garage or shop?
Yes. You must remove any uncertified woodstove or fireplace insert from all buildings on the property that is being sold.
Can I sell my uncertified woodstove?
No. It is against the law to sell, offer to sell, or advertise any uncertified woodstove or fireplace insert.
What do I do if the home buyer wants to remove the stove?
It’s up to you and the buyer to decide who will remove and destroy the stove. Once you decide, that information is part of the notice that can be submitted to DEQ.
What should I know about buying a home with an uncertified wood heating device?
If the homeowner/seller has an uncertified woodstove device in any building on the residential property being sold, he or she must remove and destroy it before the close of sale.
The seller must also give you, the buyer, the seller’s disclosure form indicating whether there is a wood burning device on the property.
It is the seller’s responsibility to remove the uncertified wood burning device unless you and the seller agree that you, the buyer, will be responsible for removing the stove. If so, you must remove and destroy the uncertified wood burning device within 30 days after the closing date of sale.
The buyer should also:
Get a receipt indicating you have destroyed the stove.
Submit the notification form to DEQ
When does the requirement to remove an uncertified woodstove or fireplace insert go into effect?
August 1, 2010.
What if I want to install a new woodstove or fireplace insert? What do I need to do?
You must obtain a permit from your local building codes department. Oregon building codes require a permit and inspection for any woodstove installation. Call your local city or county building department for details.
What wood heating devices are not required to be removed upon home sale?
These devices are not required to be removed when a home is sold:
Pellet stoves – Similar in appearance to wood stoves; however, instead of wood, pellet stoves burn a renewable fuel made of ground, dried wood and other biomass wastes compressed into pellets. Unlike wood stoves and fireplaces, most pellet stoves need electricity to operate.
Central, wood fired furnaces – Indoor, ducted, thermostatically controlled devices with a dedicated cold air inlet and hot air outlet that connect to the heating ductwork for the entire house.
Antique stoves – Woodstoves built before 1940 that have an ornate construction and a current market value substantially higher than a common woodstove manufactured during the same period.
Masonry fireplaces – There are two major types of wood-burning fireplaces, traditional masonry fireplaces that are typically built of brick or stone and are constructed on site by a mason; and “low mass” fireplaces that are engineered and pre-fabricated in a manufacturing facility prior to installation. Most fireplaces, whether masonry or low mass, are not used as a primary source of heat; their function is primarily for ambiance and secondary heating.
Masonry heaters – Site-built or site-assembled solid-fueled heating device, consisting of a firebox, a large masonry mass, and a maze of heat exchange channels. It stores heat from rapidly-burning fires within its masonry structure, and slowly releases the heat into the home throughout the day.
What if I live in an area that currently requires removal of an uncertified woodstove?
The statewide DEQ program will supersede any local stove removal requirements currently in effect.
EPA certification sticker
If your wood stove has either of the these labels attached to the back it is certified.
EPA certification label circa 1988 to present. Oregon DEQ Woodstove certification label circa 1984-1988.
Filed under: Energy Trust of Oregon, General, Household Appliances, Refrigerator and Freezer Recycling | Tags: Chris Hermanski, Energy Trust of Oregon, Refrigerator and Freezer Recycling
Your old fridge or freezer can be costing you more than you realize (see how much). That’s why Energy Trust offers FREE refrigerator and freezer recycling to help you save money and energy. It’s quick and convenient—and you’ll get $50 for participating between now and December 31, 2010.
Refrigerators built before 1993 can use 2-3 times more energy than new high-efficiency models. If you recycle and replace your pre-1993 fridge and replace it with a new ENERGY STAR qualified model, you can save more than $100 a year on energy costs. Discontinue using a second fridge in your garage or basement and you can save up to $200 a year. When you recycle your old refrigerator or freezer, 95 percent of its components are reused, and the toxins and ozone-destroying gases from its foam insulation are disposed of safely.
Schedule a Fridge Pickup Online or call us at 1.866.444.8907. En Español.
Looking for the Fridge Recycling Challenge?
Recycle your old refrigerator or freezer and receive $50 cash now through December 31, 2010. A representative of JACO Environmental will pick up the appliance at your home for free!
Read the full terms and conditions for participation.
Filed under: General, Home Maintenance, Home Repairs, Home Safety, Uncategorized, Winterize: Helpful Hints | Tags: Chris Hermanski, Home Maintenance, Winterize Tips
Cold weather can wreak havoc on your water pipes. When pipes freeze, they can crack. When pipes thaw, water coming out of those cracks can turn into a big mess. Knowing how to prevent your pipes from freezing and knowing how to shut off your water in the event that your pipes break is a major key to getting ready for the winter weather.
Before freezing weather
- Disconnect and drain hoses from outside faucets.
- Turn off and drain irrigation systems and backflow devices. Wrap backflow devices with insulating material.
- Cover outside faucets with insulation or newspaper.
- Cover foundation vents with foam blocks, thickly folded newspaper or cardboard.
- Insulate hot and cold pipes in unheated areas, such as the garage, crawl space or attic.
Shutting off your water
You and your family should always know how to shut off your water in case a pipe breaks, or in another water-related emergency. There should be a valve near the house. Look in the following places:
- In the crawl space or basement, where the water line enters the home.
- In the garage where the waterline enters the wall or ceiling, near the water heater or laundry hookup.
- Outside near the foundation, often protected by a concrete ring or clay pipe.
Some houses may not have a water shut-off valve.
For help with finding your water shut-off valve or for more information about preparing your pipes for cold weather, call your local water company.
Preparing for the unexpected
Do you and your family have a disaster plan and 72-hour kit? Having essential supplies on hand will make you and your family prepared for emergencies, whenever they may occur. For more information on emergency preparedness, visit the Tualatin Valley Fire and Rescue’s website at tvfr.com and click on “Safety Tips” or call 1-800-REDCROSS.
Information provide by:
Water Words – A joint newsletter from the Tualatin Valley Water District and Clean Water Services (November-December 2010)
Filed under: Carbon Monoxide Detectors, Home Maintenance, Home Safety, Uncategorized | Tags: Carbon Monoxide Detectors, Chris Hermanski, Home Safety
Updated November 2010
CARBON MONOXIDE QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
What is carbon monoxide?
It is an invisible, odorless, colorless gas created when fuels, such as gasoline, wood, charcoal, coal, natural gas, propane, oil, kerosene and methane burn incompletely
Where does carbon monoxide come from?
Heaters, fireplaces, furnaces, appliances and cooking sources using coal, wood, petroleum products, and other fuels producing carbon monoxide
Products and equipment powered by an internal combustion engine, such as portable generators, cars, lawn mowers, and power washers produce carbon monoxide
Operating equipment inside an attached garage increases the risk of introduction of carbon monoxide into a living space
What are the risk factors of carbon monoxide?
Carbon monoxide fumes are dangerous and may be deadly. Especially at risk are:
Unborn babies
Infants
Older adults
People who smoke
People with chronic heart disease, anemia or respiratory problem
Why should my home have carbon monoxide alarms?
According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, approximately 2,100 people die from carbon monoxide poisoning every year in the United States
There are more than 10,000 injuries annually from carbon monoxide
Fuel burning home heating and cooking equipment are sources of carbon monoxide
Car exhaust in an attached garage may leak carbon monoxide into the house even with the main garage door open
Why is carbon monoxide harmful?
It displaces oxygen in the blood and deprives the heart, brain, and other vital organs of oxygen
The molecules attach to your red blood cells more easily than oxygen molecules, depriving oxygen from getting into the body. This may damage tissues and result in death
What are symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning?
Initial symptoms are similar to the flu but without the fever:
Headache
Fatigue
Shortness of breath
Nausea
Dizziness
Skin may turn bright red
Severe symptoms include:
Mental confusion
Vomiting
Loss of muscular coordination
Loss of consciousness
Ultimately death
Who does what, when?
Oregon law requires carbon monoxide alarms to be installed following specific House Bill 3450 implementation dates:
JULY 1, 2010 – Office of State Fire Marshal (OSFM) Administrative Rules effective date
JULY 1, 2010 – For all new rental agreements, landlords must provide properly functioning carbon monoxide alarms for rental dwelling units with, or within a structure containing, a carbon monoxide source
APRIL 1, 2011 – Landlords must provide properly functioning carbon monoxide alarms for all rental dwelling units with, or within a structure containing a carbon monoxide source
APRIL 1, 2011 – Home sellers of one-and two family dwellings, manufactured dwellings, or multifamily housing units containing a carbon monoxide source must have one or more properly functioning carbon monoxide alarms before conveying fee title or transferring possession of a dwelling
APRIL 1, 2011 – Carbon monoxide alarms are required in new construction or a structure that undergoes reconstruction, alteration or repair for which a building permit is required, and is identified in the structural specialty code as a residential Group R structure.(for new construction and reconstruction go to Oregon Buildings Codes http://www.cbs.state.or.us/bcd/committees/11orsc.html)
Temporary Administrative Rules are in effect July 1, 2010 – December 28, 2010.
Permanent carbon monoxide Administrative Rules go into effect December 28, 2010.
What is a carbon monoxide alarm?
Detects carbon monoxide
Produces a distinctive audible alert when carbon monoxide is detected
Must comply with ANSI/UL 2034 or 2075 or other nationally recognized testing laboratory
May be a separate stand alone unit or part of a detection and alarm system
What types of carbon monoxide alarms are available?
Carbon monoxide only alarms: Activated by carbon monoxide
May be battery-operated, plug-in, or hard-wired
Battery back-up is recommended for plug-in and hardwired alarms
Combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarms: Activated by smoke or carbon monoxide
Combination smoke/carbon monoxide alarms must comply with ANSI/UL 217 and ANSI/UL 2034
Combination smoke/carbon monoxide detectors must comply with ANSI/UL 268 and ANSI/UL 2075
Ionization smoke/carbon monoxide alarms: Activated by smoke or carbon monoxide These alarms are labeled on either the front or back of the alarm with:
‘Smoke and carbon monoxide alarm’
A lower case letter ‘i’ for ionization and the word ‘ionization’
The phrase ‘contains radioactive material’
NOTE: These alarms do not require a 10-year battery
Photoelectric smoke/carbon monoxide alarm: Activated by smoke or carbon monoxide. These alarms are labeled on either the front or back of the alarm with:
‘smoke and carbon monoxide alarm’
a capital letter ‘P’ for photoelectric and the word ‘photoelectric’
Photoelectric smoke/carbon monoxide with voice alarm: Activated by smoke or carbon monoxide. An audible voice tone speaks the type and location of danger in your home, when programmed. These alarms are labeled on either the front or back of the alarm with:
A capital letter ‘P’ and the word ‘photoelectric’
‘Smoke and carbon monoxide alarm’
Explosive gas & carbon monoxide alarm: Activated by carbon monoxide, propane or natural/methane gas. These alarms are labeled on either the front or back of the alarm with:
‘Explosive gas and carbon monoxide alarm’ on the front of the alarm
What is the difference between ionized and photoelectric?
Ionization smoke detectors feature a radioactive source within a dual detection chamber. Ionization alarms sense an unseen change in the electrical conductivity
Ionization detectors sense smoke invisible to the human eye
Photoelectric detectors respond to visible by-products of combustion
When enough visible combustibles are present, the detector sounds an alarm
May I modify my hard-wired smoke alarm system for a combination carbon monoxide and smoke alarm?
You may replace a hardwired smoke alarm for a hardwired battery back-up smoke/carbon monoxide combination alarm
Switching from one manufacturer’s unit to another requires a power adapter plug
Manufacturers advise adapter plugs may be changed using wire nuts and may require a qualified electrician
Where do I install carbon monoxide alarms?
On each level of your home with sleeping areas
In each bedroom or within 15 feet outside each sleeping area
Install alarms according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Do the current rules require a carbon monoxide alarm in each sleeping area?
No, but it is still a recommended best practice to have them in both the bedroom and within 15 feet outside the bedroom
The law requires a carbon monoxide alarm on each level of your home with sleeping areas and within 15 feet of each sleeping area
However, ductwork from sources often goes directly to bedrooms, bypassing hallways outside of sleeping areas
I understand the rules provide minimum requirements. What other recommendations are there for placement of carbon monoxide alarms?
Securely fasten plug in devices to the structure.
Install a CO alarm in every room containing a carbon monoxide source, except a garage intended for parking vehicles.
Install a carbon monoxide alarm system in multi-family dwellings in any enclosed common area within the building if the common area is connected to:
Carbon monoxide source located or attached to the structure; and
A dwelling unit.
Where should carbon monoxide alarms NOT be installed?
Garages and kitchens
Extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas
Direct sunlight or areas prone to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawl spaces such as ventilated attics, basement, and crawl spaces, unfinished attics, uninsulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches
In electrical outlets covered by curtains or other obstructions
In turbulent air such as near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the sensors
Directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a trace amount of carbon monoxide only upon start-up
Within 15 feet of heating and cooking appliances, or in or near, very humid areas such as bathrooms
How often do I replace my carbon monoxide alarm?
Most carbon monoxide alarms have a five year limited warranty
Manufacturers recommend replacing alarms five years from date of production
How do I keep my carbon monoxide alarm working?
Test alarms monthly
Vacuum alarms regularly to remove dust and cobwebs
Never disconnect or remove alarm batteries for other use
For battery operated, replace the 9-volt or AA batteries at least once per year
Carbon monoxide alarms are not required to have a 10-year battery
Carbon monoxide/smoke combination alarms are not required to have a 10-year battery
What should I do when the carbon monoxide alarm sounds?
Don’t ignore the alarm! It is intended to warn household members before they experience symptoms
Silence the alarm
Move everyone outside to fresh air and call for help from a fresh air location:
If anyone is experiencing symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning, call 9-1-1
If no one has symptoms, ventilate the building and contact a qualified service technician
Have all home equipment powered by fuels such as gas, wood, coal, natural gas, propane, oil, or methane inspected by a qualified technician
Have fuel-burning heating equipment and chimneys inspected by a professional every year before cold weather sets in
For more information on Oregon’s carbon monoxide law, visit: http://www.oregon.gov/OSP/SFM/CommEd_CO_Program.shtml or call 503-934-8228
Additional references:
CARBON MONOXIDE in Oregon Statutes at http://www.oregon.gov/OSP/SFM/docs/Codes/COStatutes.pdf
For Landlords:
Metro Multifamily Housing Association
921 SW Washington Suite 772
Portland, OR 97205
503-226-4533
For Homebuilders:
Oregon Home Builders Association
375 Taylor Street NE
Salem, OR 97301
503-378-9066
Oregon Association. of Realtors:
2110 Mission Street SE, Suite 310
Salem, OR 97308
503-362-3645
For Adult Foster Home Program:
Connie Rush DHS-Seniors and People with Disabilities
500 Summer St. NE E12 Salem, OR 97301-1073 800-232-3020
Building Codes Division:
P.O. Box 14470
Salem, OR 97309-0404
503-378-4133
Information provided by:
Office of State Fire Marshal
4760 Portland Road NE
Salem, OR 97305-1760
(503) 378-3473
Fax (503) 373-1825 fax
TTY (503) 390-4661
E-mail: Oregon.sfm@state.or.us
www.Oregon.gov/OSP/SFM
Filed under: Carbon Monoxide Detectors, General, Home Maintenance, Home Safety, rentals | Tags: Carbon Monoxide Detectors, Chris Hermanski, Home Safety, rentals
Carbon Monoxide Detectors – Proper Placement of Carbon Monoxide CO Detectors Important
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WASHINGTON, Sept. 30 /PRNewswire/ — Proper placement of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector is important, reminds the makers of home-safety and security website HomeSafe.com (http://www.homesafe.com/coalert).
Each fall the sad news of another family that has one or more of its family members perish in their sleep from carbon monoxide poisoning repeats itself.
The real tragedy is that these deaths can be prevented if the family had the chimney checked and/or installed carbon monoxide detectors near the sleeping and living areas within the house.
If you are installing only one carbon monoxide detector, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends it be located near the sleeping area, where it can wake you if you are asleep. Additional detectors on every level and in every bedroom of a home provide extra protection against carbon monoxide poisoning.
Homeowners should remember not to install carbon monoxide detectors directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up. A detector should not be placed within fifteen feet of heating or cooking appliances or in or near very humid areas such as bathrooms.
When considering where to place a carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide’s specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; the National Resource Council lists the specific gravity of air as one), it may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.
Installation locations vary by manufacturer. Manufacturers’ recommendations differ to a certain degree based on research conducted with each one’s specific detector. Therefore, make sure to read the provided installation manual for each detector before installing.
For more information about carbon monoxide poisoning prevention and to find top-rated CO detectors for your home, visit the CO ALERT at http://www.homesafe.com/coalert.
Filed under: General, MMHA, MMHA Apartment Report, NARPM, Property Management, Uncategorized | Tags: Chris Hermanski, MMHA, MMHA Apartment Report, Portland Metro Apartment Market, Property Management, rentals
By Mark D. Barry, MAI and Phillip E. Barry, Real Estate Broker
The Landlord Times Metro - November 2010 - Vol.14 Issue 10
Forecast For Balance of 2010 and 2011
So where is our apartment market going in the balance of 2010 and 2011? Our thoughts are as follows:
Portland Economy:
The recovery is limping along as we enter the fourth quarter of the year, and is coming at a time when many of the benefits of the government stimulus spending are wearing off. The US economy needs 200,000 jobs per month to bring the unemployment rate down. No one expects that to happen in the near future. In addition, low interest rates, which can encourage borrowing to spur economic growth, are already at near zero. The Oregon Office of Economic Analysis expects that there will be job losses in 2010, and that employment will not reach pre-recession levels until mid 2014.
Apartment Construction:
One thing you won’t have to worry about in the balance of 2010 and into 2011 will be apartment construction. 2010 will be the slowest year for apartment construction in our adult lifetime. There will be some government sponsored urban projects, but that’s about it. I expect we will see permits for 600 to 1,000 new units in 2011.
Apartment Vacancies, Rental Rates, and Income:
The balance of 2010 and first part of 2011 will be a time to concentrate on keeping your tenants happy, and holding on to what you have. Apartment vacancies should remain in the range of 3.5% to 4.5%. But, income will remain flat in the first half of 2011. Looking beyond mid 2011, apartment income should rebound quickly once the economy turns around. There will be a shortage of apartments by 2012.
Apartment Values:
Apartment values have stabilized in YTD 2010. We expect that apartment values will remain stable in the balance of 2010 and into 2011 due to low interest rates, low vacancies, and fairly stable apartment income despite some increasing expenses. When the economy improves, everyone expects apartment income to increase. The real concern is that interest rates will also increase in cap rates. Expect to see typical cap rates of 6.50% to 7.75% for B and C suburban apartments, and 5.75% to 7.25% for more urban properties in 2011. Don’t expect any property tax relief in the 2010-2011 tax year despite a decline in values, and expect to see continued increases in utility costs.
Apartment Sales Volumes:
In 2009 and YTD 2010, we have seen the lowest level of apartment sales activity over the last decade. We have nowhere to go but up. The next two years will be a far better environment for apartment sales. This will be due to owners getting better educated on values, some capitulation on the part of sellers, motivated sellers who need the funds, sellers motivated by possible increases in capital gains, and buyers who sense that we are close to bottom. We are seeing a two-tiered market. There is good investor demand and often multiple offers for well performing, well kept apartments in stable locations, and institutional apartments. However, there are have been more workout and foreclosure appraisals over the last nine months than any time since the early to mid 1980′s.
CONCLUSION
The recent job figures show that we are not yet there on any positive employment news. We expect the balance of 2010 to be lackluster, with some limited signs of recovery in the first half of 2011, but no real recovery until mid 2011 and 2012. Apartment construction will be at record lows, which will help in maintaining low apartment vacancies. We expect apartment income to remain flat for the rest of the year, with modest increases beginning in mid 2011. There will continue to be a two-tiered market, with good demand for performing well-kept and well-located assets, but some overhang of poorly performing assets in marginal locations, with most of these being owner managed. We all like to think that the economy has hit bottom. However, the most recent data seems to point to an anemic recovery at best in the balance of 2010 and into 2011. It is likely that we will have to wait until mid 2011 and 2012 for any significant recovery.
Mark D. Barry, MAI, is a real estate appraiser specializing in apartment appraisals in the Portland area. He has completed over 5,000 apartment appraisals since starting as a fee appraiser in 1983. He has a BA from the University of California at Berkeley, and an MBA in Real Estate from American University in Washington, D.C.
Phillip E. Barry is a real estate broker with Joseph Bernard Investment Real Estate, and specializes in apartment sales in the Portland metropolitan area. He is a graduate of Oregon State University.
